Author Topic: removal of fuel tank  (Read 754 times)

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Offline Barry Wiles - ARANRHOD

  • LOA Member - Wales
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removal of fuel tank
« on: Fri 24/Apr/2015 18:13 GMT »
hi all . have hesiitated from removing our fuel tank for cleaning because of the way the tank is held in by what seems screws direct into the side of the tank. i have no idea how thick. the tank wall's are  and has anyone got this similar set up on the 29.   cheers  barry wiles
photo attached. i hope

Offline NC Spooner

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Re: removal of fuel tank
« Reply #1 on: Fri 23/Dec/2016 12:28 GMT »
Hi Barry,
How did you get on with the fuel tank? Why did you want to remove it?
I guess you must have done the job by now....the screws that go into the tank have an alloy "boss" moulded into the tank, so you should not leak fuel on removal.
Regards,
Neil
A little help goes a long way!

Offline Barry Wiles - ARANRHOD

  • LOA Member - Wales
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Re: removal of fuel tank
« Reply #2 on: Wed 28/Dec/2016 10:15 GMT »
hi neil. thanks for the information. will re visit this project probably next winter lay up. ps to clean it was my reason. touch wood the diesel is still coming out clean so far. thanks  barry

Offline Robin & Mary Wren

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Re: removal of fuel tank
« Reply #3 on: Thu 29/Dec/2016 10:13 GMT »
If you just want to clean it, why not do this in-situ? I have done this on my 36 and "Good Grief" did it on his 33.
Remove the fuel, I did this with a 12 volt fuel pump from EBay. If you have another filter, it can be cleaned by passing it through the filter a couple of times after putting some treatment solution in it. I used Solatron.
One or two holes can then be cut in the top of the tank using a proper hole cutter. Try to keep as much swarf   out of the tank as you can. Before this purchase a retro fit hatch from TecTank to get the right size. The hole is about 150mm in diameter, enough to get an arm into.
The tank can then be cleaned using great quantities of kitchen roll or similar. My tank had a layer of sludge all over the bottom, and some on the sides. On the 36 two hatches had to be put in to reach all of the inside of the tank. The hatches only need the one hole cut as they have a central bolt system.
They have been in place for a year now, and have not leaked. It also means that I can open a hatch and shine a torch in to see if there is any sludge forming - so far, so good.
Hope this helps, but if you any questions, get back to me.
PS do not buy diesel in Dunkirk.

Offline Barry Wiles - ARANRHOD

  • LOA Member - Wales
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Re: removal of fuel tank
« Reply #4 on: Thu 29/Dec/2016 18:25 GMT »
hi robin. many thanks for your advices. pumping it all out first looks a good idea and then fitting a 150mm inspection hatch after, i was worried about swarf  but see that can be cleaned out easier if a proper inspection hatch is fitted.
 . many thanks for sparking  my enthusiasm back.  regards  barry

Offline Leon Jennings "Amelia"

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  • Leon Jennings Yacht Surveys Full Member of B.M.S.E.
    • Leon Jennings Yacht Surveys
Re: removal of fuel tank
« Reply #5 on: Thu 29/Dec/2016 23:10 GMT »
so long as the new hole in the tank is watertight or more importantly fuel tight and can withstand an inversion; and oh yes; either comes with Type approval with an RCD directive certificate. And your insurance is happy about the modification.

Just saying........ :-\
Leon Jennings  Yacht Surveys
British Marine Surveyors Europe
Hunter 356 "Amelia"
Corfu